Tips & Tricks

FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED IN ATLANTA

SPECIALIZING IN HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING

DIY TIPS

NO MATTER WHERE YOU LIVE, THERE ARE THINGS YOU CAN DO TO REDUCE YOUR ENERGY COSTS

Replace Your Filter

The main thing that must be done to keep your unit running efﬁciently is cleaning or replacing your ﬁlter. The ﬁlter is usually located in one of the following places:

1. In the grille in your wall or ceiling.

2. In a slot on the side, bottom, or top of your furnace.

3. Inside the blower compartment of your furnace or air handler.

It is just a matter of removing it and replacing it with another of the same size. You should do this at least every three months, but it is recommended that you check the ﬁlter on a monthly basis. If your ﬁlter is washable, clean it with 409 detergent, rinse thoroughly and let it dry before re-installing it.

Wash Your Unit

Over time, dirt, leaves, grass clippings, etc. build up on the outside of the unit. The result of this is lower system capacity. You will most likely see the effects of it on your electric bill. Cleaning the unit is simple.

1. SHUT THE POWER OFF TO THE UNIT.

2. Use a garden hose and gently wash out the debris. Start at the top, holding the nozzle of the hose at about a 45-degree angle to the unit. Work your way down and around the unit, ﬂushing the debris out as you go.

3. DO NOT USE A POWER WASHER AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO MASH THE FINS ON THE COIL.

Thermostat

If your thermostat is blank and has no display – you may need to change the batteries. Just pull the face of the thermostat off and install new batteries. Replace the face back on the wall and turn the thermostat on. If there is still no display, the problem could be with the electrical components or the unit. Contact us for a service call if your thermostat continues to stay blank.

Cooling Tips

1. Never run your air conditioning when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees. This may cause the coils to frost up, restricting air ﬂow.

2. Always turn on power 24 hours before using a central air conditioner. This gives the unit time to separate oil from the refrigerant before cool air is required.

3. Pull the shades and blinds on the sides of the house that get the most direct and intense sun. This will not only keep your home cooler, but will also protect your home from sun damaged furniture and sun damaged ﬂoors.

4. By using ceiling fans and box fans, you can circulate the cool air quicker and help out your air conditioning unit. Also, move drapes, pots and furniture away from vents so that the air can free ﬂow to reach more area.

5. If you have any doubts about the efﬁciency or effectiveness of your air conditioning unit, have it inspected by one of our technicians. A professional can make the appropriate adjustments to ensure your unit runs in prime condition.

Heating Tips

1. Check the pilot light if you have a natural gas system. The ﬂame should always be clear blue. A yellow or orange ﬂame could be a sign of a problem.

2. Before winter begins, test your heater to see if it runs. Contact usif you don’t feel any warm air coming from the vents.

3. Inspect the furnace for worn, shiny or sagging belts. They cause undue stress on the fan motor. Repairs require loosening the motor chassis mounts and sliding the motor back enough to make the belt taut and aligned with the fan.

4. Seal air leaks in attic, basement and crawl space, and also around windows and doors.

5. If you have any doubts about the efﬁciency or effectiveness of you heating unit, have it inspected by one of our technicians. A professional can make the appropriate adjustments to endure your unit runs in prime condition.

If your unit is not operating properly, please contact us to have your system thoroughly inspected.

MONEY SAVING TIPS

IF YOU FOLLOW MY ADVICE, YOU WILL SAVE MONEY IN YOUR SLEEP!

Ceiling Fans

Ceiling fans give you the sensation that a room is cooler than it actually is by creating a breeze. The thermostat can be moved to a higher temperature and you will feel comfortable. Make sure to turn off the fan when leaving the room. Fans do not actually cool the air, they just move it.

Set the Thermostat

The most economical operation of your system comes from setting the thermostat properly. Set the thermostat at the highest summer setting or the lowest winter setting when you’re not home. Typical settings are 70 degrees for winter heating and 78 degrees for summer cooling.

Programmable Thermostat

You can schedule the time your heating/A/C system operates. Your homes’ programmable thermostat can store and repeat multiple daily settings.

Keep Vents and Grilles Unobstructed

Arrange your furniture and drapes so that all output vents and intake grilles are free from obstruction. This will reduce the cooling and heating load on your system for a more economical operation.

Keep Your Air Filter Clean

The easiest way to ensure your system operates efﬁciently and economically is by keeping the air ﬁlter clean. If your ﬁlter is not washable, it should be changed out every three months, to ensure proper operation. There are several types of air ﬁlters and several possible locations for the air ﬁlter. The larger, space guard ﬁlters last longer and are changed less often. If you’re not sure what size ﬁlter you have, or where it is located, contact our ofﬁce and we will gladly help you ﬁnd it

Keep Doors and Windows Closed

Close all doors and windows to the outside. This will reduce the heating load in winter and the cooling load in summer. Your system will operate more economically as a result.

Use the AUTO setting

Generally, it is best to set your indoor fan to AUTO. This costs less and provides better humidity control in the summer.

Insulate Air Ducts

Be sure all air ducts are well insulated. Ducts should also be sealed with a vapor barrier.

Keep Heat Away from the Thermostat

Make sure no heat-generating appliances are near your thermostat. These include lamps, TVs, stereo and computer equipment.

Get a Maintenance Agreement

Make sure your HVAC system is regularly cleaned and serviced. Regular maintenance can help lower heating and cooling bills, as well as prevent costly repairs.

HVAC DEFINITIONS

Air Cleaning

In HVAC an IAQ control strategy to remove various airborne particulates and/or gases from the air. The three types of air cleaning most commonly used are particulate filtration, electrostatic precipitation, and gas sorption.

Air Conditioner

A device used to control temperature and humidity of the air.

Air Handling Unit (AHU)

In HVAC refers to equipment that includes a blower or fan and heating and/or cooling coils.

Allergen

A substance capable of causing an allergic reaction because of an individual’s sensitivity to that substance.

Blower

In HVAC the device in an air conditioner that distributes the filtered air from the return duct over the coil/heat exchanger. This circulated air is cooled/heated and then sent through the supply duct, past dampers, and through supply diffusers to the living/working space.

British Thermal Unit (BTU)

The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit, equal to 252 calories.

Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM)

HVAC term for the amount of air, in cubic feet, that flows through a given space in one minute. 1 CFM equals approximately 2 liters per second (l/s).

Compressor

A device used to compress air for mechanical or electrical power production, and in air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators to pressurize the refrigerant and enabling it to flow through the system.

Condenser Coil

The device in an air conditioner or heat pump through which the refrigerant is circulated and releases heat to the surroundings when a fan blows outside air over the coils.

Condensing Unit

The component of a central air conditioner that is designed to remove heat absorbed by the refrigerant and transfer it outside the conditioned space.

Dampers

HVAC term for controls that vary airflow through an air outlet, inlet, or duct. A damper position may be immovable, manually adjustable or part of an automated control system.

Dehumidifier

A device for reducing the level of humidity in a room or home.

Duct(s)

The round or rectangular tube(s), generally constructed of sheet metal, fiberglass board, or a flexible plastic-and-wire composite, located within a wall, floor, and ceiling that distributes heated or cooled air in buildings.

Evaporator Coil

A network of tubes indoors filled with refrigerant that removes heat and moisture from the air.

Filter (Air)

A device that removes contaminants, by mechanical filtration, from the fresh air stream before the air enters the living space. Filters can be installed as part of a heating/cooling system through which air flows for the purpose of removing particulates before or after the air enters the mechanical components.

Furnace (Residential)

In HVAC a combustion heating appliance in which heat is captured from the burning of a fuel for distribution, comprised mainly of a combustion chamber and heat exchanger.

Heat Exchanger

A major part of a furnace that transfers heat created in the fuel combustion area to the surrounding air that is pumped into the rooms. This component can develop rust holes or other leaks and problems. To prevent carbon monoxide gas from entering the living areas and for other reasons, the heat exchanger and heating system should be professionally checked regularly.

Humidifier

A device for increasing the humidity in a room or home.

Humidity

A measure of the moisture content of air; may be expressed as absolute, mixing ratio, saturation deficit, relative, or specific.

Ionizer

A device that removes airborne particles from breathable air. Negative ions are produced and give up their negative charge to the particles. These new negative particles are then attracted to the positive particles surrounding them. This accumulation process continues until the particles become heavy enough to fall to the ground.

Plenum

HVAC term for an air compartment connected to a duct or ducts.

Preventative Maintenance

Regular and systematic inspection, cleaning, and replacement of worn parts, materials, and systems. Preventive maintenance helps to prevent parts, material, and systems failure by ensuring that parts, materials and systems are in good working order.

Refrigerant

The compound (working fluid) used in air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators to transfer heat into or out of an interior space. This fluid boils at a very low temperature enabling it to evaporate and absorb heat.

Return Air

Air that is returned to a heating or cooling appliance from a heated or cooled space.

Return Duct

The central heating or cooling system contains a fan that gets its air supply through these ducts, which ideally should be installed in every room of the house. The air from a room will move towards the lower pressure of the return duct.

Split System Air Conditioner

HVAC term for an air conditioning system that comes in two to five pieces: one piece contains the compressor, condenser, and a fan; the others have an evaporator and a fan. The condenser, installed outside the house, connects to several evaporators, one in each room to be cooled, mounted inside the house. Each evaporator is individually controlled, allowing different rooms or zones to be cooled to varying degrees.

Supply Duct

HVAC term for the duct(s) of a forced air heating/cooling system through which heated or cooled air is supplied to rooms by the action of the fan of the central heating or cooling unit.

Thermostat

A control device that consists of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and activate the functions of an air conditioning and heating system. Generally, older thermostats are mechanical and more recent ones are electronic. See also “programmable thermostat”.

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